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Friday, 20 October 2023

Nya-Dosem

Did you know that Nya-Dosem is not a fish sandwiched between stone slabs. It is just a misunderstanding attached with its name. It is beyond the stone and the fish. It carries the hardship of catching the fish where they have to camp in the middle of the river and wait for the fish to get in their trap. It is an asset passed from their fore-fathers, the identity of belonging to their village and pride shown to other people, giving value to  the worth of Nya-Dosem. 

The story of Nya-Dosem dates back to the times of fore-fathers when the people of Lawa-Lamgang and Rukha-Samthang relied upon fishing to make their livelihood. The remoteness of their village and lack of sources for income generation were some of the reasons why they relied upon fishing. Realising this, in 2010 it was legalised to fish for a stretch of 7kms from Haracchu for the people of these two Chiwogs. It was a gift from the throne. 

Fishing season

Fishing is allowed for only 6 months, September to December and February to March. It is not  allowed to fish during Bhutanese month of Saga Daw and during the breeding season.

Fishing technique 

What makes Nya-Dosem special? Its speciality starts from the way it is fished. They neither  use a fishing net nor a fishing hook to catch the fishes. They use bamboo and wooden sticks with which they make a diversion in the river to trap the fishes. 


Drying/baking technique 

The fish is then washed, cleaned and bent in a bow shape with the help of bamboo which is then dried on a low flame. The stove is made from stones on either side and wooden sticks are kept in the centre like a bridge. The fish is then kept on the stick bridge and dried where it needs to be flipped around occasionally to avoid burning. These sticks are changed every day to maintain the hygiene of the fish. They say for the best premium quality it takes around 15 days for a fish to be dried. 

Cooking technique

Well most of the time we cook this fish in the wrong way and fail to obtain the actual flavour of it. Since it is smoke dried the smell of smoke is bound to be with it so before cooking it has to be soaked in warm water for 5 mins to remove the smoke smell and stains. Wash properly and need not really remove the scale as the people here there say even the scales carry the taste. After washing, cook with some water, dried chilli, salt and cooking oil can be added at the same time. When it is almost cooked add cottage cheese and fresh butter. This is the traditional way of preparing Nya-Dosem but it can be prepared in various methods. However, I feel it would taste the best when it is prepared in the traditional method. 

Concerns

Things have changed over the time and the people are now questioning the sustainability of this earning as the number of fishes has decreased over the years. They say there was a time when they caught 60-70 fishes in a night and now they hardly catch 2-3 in a night. Hence, the group is looking for other means of rearing the fishes and not just depending on the fishes from the river. This way they will be able to keep their tradition alive and pass on from generations to generations. 

Chairman of the group with packed Nya-Dosem

Tuesday, 3 October 2023

Do you all also enjoy Lochoe's as much as me?

Bhutan being a culturally rich nation has so many unique and beautiful things to pass down to the younger generations, tell stories about and take pride in. I feel the complexity and intricacies of our culture and tradition can be compared to that of the pattern of Kishuthara. It comes in varieties of colours, patterns and a lot of stories on its origin. 


Of the many cultures and traditions it's the annual ritual (Lochoe) in the village that reminds me of my home. Since we all work away from our home we rarely get time to go back so it’s only this annual ritual that brings all the families and relatives together. It is also the only time of the year that our grandparents look forward with much eagerness and excitement. 


Having grown up in a close-nit society I have always felt emotionally connected with the feeling of being surrounded by my families and relatives, sharing home cooked meals together and ending the day with traditional song and dance in circles (Gorgom). It may be a one day ritual but connectivity within the family on that day cannot be measured. We share the stories from the city while our grandparents share their stories of the village. Conversations happen even while working such as over preparing meals, chopping vegetables or doing the dishes. Like in any other homes we also have our own special means of bonding that is by preparing our traditional Bumthap buckwheat noodles (Puta) in a traditional way whenever we have such a family gathering. For our family no gathering is complete without preparing and having that dish. 


This being said, it was very unfortunate for me to miss this year’s Lochoe. It was not just ritual being missed, I have missed meeting my grandparents, relatives back in the village and everyone who came from the capital. I can always meet them another time but meeting them during that time of the year gives unmatched joy and connectedness. 


Campfires and people dancing around it always reminds me of Lochoe